The Truth About Butters, Oils, and Pomades in Natural Hair Care

There’s a quiet yet significant shift happening in the natural hair industry—one that both clients and stylists alike are feeling. As economic pressures rise, salon owners and independent stylists are making tough decisions about the products they use and recommend. At the same time, there’s an unsettling trend emerging: corporate entities with deep pockets are attempting to hijack the educational platforms built by experienced Black hair stylists—professionals who have dedicated years, if not decades, to working hands-on with all hair types and textures.

One of the most controversial topics in this shift is the debate over butters, oils, and pomades in natural hair care. Some stylists are actively discouraging their clients from using these products, citing concerns about build-up and improper usage. However, the reality is far more nuanced. And more importantly, the shift away from natural butters and pomades may have less to do with hair health and more to do with the financial pressures stylists and salons are facing.

The Cost of Natural Hair Care in a Changing Economy

There’s no denying that salon-quality natural butters and pomades can be expensive, especially when purchased in bulk. In today’s economic climate, many stylists, struggling to keep their businesses afloat, may be cutting costs by avoiding products that are pricier than the conventional consumer-sized alternatives. However, in doing so, they may overlook the essential role these products play in maintaining long-lasting styles and supporting the health of tight coily hair, as well as hair with low porosity and low elasticity.

For many clients, protective styles like braids, wigs, and weaves have long been go-to options for their ability to minimize daily styling time and maintain a polished look on the cheap. But those who want to wear their natural hair out—especially those with Type 4 curls—still need products that provide long-lasting moisture and definition.

The Misconception About Butters and Oils

One major reason natural hair stylists have turned away from butters and pomades is rooted in history. Many of us grew up using products that contained petroleum and mineral oils—ingredients that coat the hair, make it difficult to cleanse properly, and contribute to dryness over time. These synthetic oils have also been linked to hormonal disruption and scalp health issues like hair loss. 

But let’s be clear, not all oils and butters are created equal. High-quality natural butters and oils— formulated by expert chemists and rigorously tested on curly and coily hair—are worlds apart from the heavy, synthetic products of the past. The key difference? These natural formulations are designed to absorb easily into the hair, rinse out cleanly with proper shampooing, and actually support moisture retention rather than hinder it.

The Role of Butters and Pomades in Long-Lasting Styles

Many people transitioning out of protective styles, like plastic-based hair extensions, find that their cuticles are raised and their hair needs extra sealing to prevent moisture loss and breakage. This is especially important for clients with low porosity or low elasticity hair as cold, dry climates can make it challenging for natural curls to stay hydrated and well-defined with gel alone.

For these clients, pomades and butters are more than just styling products—they are necessary tools for achieving lasting, healthy results. When applied correctly, they can:

• Lock in moisture, reducing the risk of dryness and breakage.

• Create a protective barrier against harsh weather conditions.

• Help styles last longer without excessive reapplication or manipulation.

• Provide shine and definition without the crunch or flaking of gels.

Supporting the Right Products and the Right Brands

Many of the best butters and pomades available today are formulated by Black-owned, woman-owned, and family-owned businesses that prioritize high-quality ingredients and rigorous testing on textured hair. Unfortunately, these smaller brands often lack the marketing budgets to compete with larger, corporate-backed products.

Dismissing these carefully crafted products without fully understanding their value does a disservice to both stylists and clients. Without rigorous testing, firsthand experience, or a deep knowledge of curly hair science, outright rejecting butters and pomades isn’t about making an informed choice—it’s about reinforcing an industry narrative that often excludes our unique needs and expertise.

If more stylists took the time to test a range of butters and pomades on their clients—especially those struggling with moisture retention—they might find that these products provide exactly what their clientele has been missing. Some excellent brands to explore include:

• UpNorth Naturals

• Camille Rose

• Inhairitance Curl Care

• Earth Tone Naturals

• Happy Nappy from Blended Beauty

• Komaza Care

• London Ivy

These products have been highly recommended by Curl Experts International and have been shown to improve the look and feel of natural hair after just one use.

A Call to Action for Stylists and Consumers

In cities like Montreal, where the hairstylist community places high value on definition, length retention, shine, and longevity, the decision to avoid butters and oils isn’t practical. It’s essential that clients with specific hair porosities and elasticities have access to brands that support their unique needs—because excluding them from the conversation not only limits their styling options, but also compromises their overall hair health. 

Ultimately, choosing to support high-quality butters, oils, and pomades isn’t just about personal preference—it’s about uplifting an ecosystem of businesses committed to textured hair care, and ensuring that clients have access to professional-grade products.

So, before dismissing these products outright, let’s take a moment to reevaluate. Let’s test, learn, and have open conversations. Let’s uplift the businesses that have been doing the work, and let’s make sure our clients have the best possible options for their natural hair journey. Because when we choose knowledge and community over convenience, we all win.